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First step was to remove the valve block from the vehicle. I didn't take any pictures along the way but these are the tools I used minus a 17mm and breaker bar to remove the wheels
Be sure to clean the surrounding area really well before removal to avoid getting any dirt into the lines
Here is the valve block out of the car
First step is to remove the plastic clips that hold the valves together. The easiest way is to pick the two ears together to crack the clips. Replacements are provided in our 18pc and 32pc kits. Then simply walk the clips up the solenoid and discard. The ear that doesn’t crack may need to be walked up over the retaining tab on the solenoid with a small screwdriver like pictured below.
From here you can rotate the valves 90 degrees on the control valves and 45 degrees on the locking valves and then they can be pulled out of the valve block. Sometimes they can be stubborn and need twisting back and forth while pulling out or you can put a small screwdriver under the solenoid to help pry it upward using caution not to damage the solenoid housing.
The big O-rings at the base of valves just seal outside moisture and such from getting in, they are not under hydraulic pressure. If rust or corrosion is found under these be sure and clean it thoroughly. This is typically just cosmetic and has no effect on the solenoids function as long as it doesn’t extend into the fluid cavity.
The rings on the shaft of the locking valve plungers do not need to be replaced. The green ring is a thin plastic sleeve that goes over a hard ring underneath it. These rings help keep the plunger centered and moving smoothly within the solenoid. They do not seal hydraulic pressure, if these rings are too tight the plunger will not move freely in the solenoid. Stretch the springs a couple millimeters to ensure proper seating of plunger. These springs don’t wear out and there is no issue reusing them, replacement only necessary if missing.
Inspect the white teflon back up rings for any kind of damage, If they are damaged they can be replaced with PTFE teflon back up ring included in our complete kit. If your valve block has nitrile backup rings they can be replaced upgraded PTFE. The rings on these valves were in good shape so They just got a good cleaning with a tooth brush and a little solvent.
See links at the top and bottom of the page for backup ring replacement.
Here is a picture of the valves with their respective seals that will be getting installed after the valves receive a thorough cleaning. Also be sure and thoroughly clean the aluminum housing to get all old fluid and debris out of it.
After it is all cleaned up and new O-rings installed it's time to put the valves back in. Use plenty of new hydraulic oil to lubricate the valve with o-rings as well as the valve block itself. Always try and turn the locking valves in clockwise, sometimes the valve comes loose from housing when turning counter clockwise. Take your time putting them in to ensure you don't pinch an o-ring.
Once all valves are in place it's time to put the clips back on. Simply push the clips in between the valves and down into position.
Double check you have 14 old o-rings and no new o-rings on your workbench. After that put the valve block back in the car.
Kit comes with 14 Viton orings, 2 outer seals for control valves, and 2 clips as seen in pictures. Valves NOT included
This kit comes with upgraded PTFE backup rings for improved sealing, easier installation, longer life. Contents include new clip, outer seals for control valves, 14 Viton orings and 14 PTFE backup rings